Start with the #2000
Take several of the sheets and cut them to fit the sanding block. Use
the paper cutter at the office - works great for this!
Soak them in clean water in your bucket. Add a few drops of dish soap
to the water.
Now, down to bidnez:
Go wash your hands. Put on clean, cotton, non-scratching clothes.
Wash the areas to be sanded. Get anal-retentive.
Ok, *now* down to bidnez.
Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the block. Using the "holey"
block, and the holey side of the paper, start sanding. There are different
schools of thought here, but some body guys suggest using straight,
with sucessive passes at 90 degrees. This breaks down any ridges
built up. Then the polisher would break those down.
Sand until the orange peel appears to be gone. To check, wipe it clean
with a CLEAN terry towel that I should have said to buy above.
As it dries, look against the light; orange peel will appear as "shiny"
divots in the surface. You gotta get real close. You won't see
the orange peel until the surface dries. Keep sanding until the
surface is entirely flat, and you have no dots/divots. If it's *really*,
*really* bad, you can start with #1500. I've started with heavier than
that and regretted it!
Keep the sanding sludge rinsed off. Eastwood sells a cool suction-cup
watering thing, but if this is a one-time deal, it's prolly not worth it.
Once you have all the orange peel out with #2000, go over it will #2500.
Now you're trying to get any scratches from the #2000 out with the
#2500. Sending the spider to catch the fly.
You're done when you have a dull shine from the sandpaper alone. Keep
stroking, you *will* get there.
Start with a small area, say 1' square. Don't wander about the car
picking at spots, it will bite you later.
Don't get stingy with the sandpaper - it's false economy. It takes more
effort to try and eek mor elife out of worn paper, than it does to
use new paper. Paper is cheep - your labor isn't.
You can get 3 "sides" out of a sheet of paper - it will be obvious once
you see how to wrap the paper on the block.
Keep everything really wet. Really, really wet. Every time you get
some sanding effluent built up, rinse it off. Dunk the block and paper
in the bucket every now and then and "swish" the slurry off. Every
hour or so, change the water in the bucket.
Now the fun part. Wash all the sanding debris off, and let dry.
Hook up the polisher with the polishing pad, and a swirl of polishing
compound on the pad. Set the pad on the surface - don't fire it up yet! -
and squish the compound over a 2' square area or so. If you don't,
you'll sling it all over the place.
Start the polisher slow - get an adjustable-speed one, and choke down
the speed at first.
Your greatest danger here is "burning" the surface by catching an edge
or pressing too hard.
Slowly work the compound around, using light pressure and low speed. As
the compund starts to "sink in" (it's not really), you can up the speed.
As it dries, you'll start seeing the shine come thru. Be patient!
Don't trade pressure for time, it don't work like that!
You will probably need to repeat this step two or three times, depending
on the condition of the starting finish, and how well you sanded it.
You're done when you have a kick-ass gloss with just the compound.
When the entire car was been worked up thru compounding, then you can
use the glaze. The car should be awful bright by that time, and some
people are so happy by this point, they skip the glaze. I know I have.
The glaze is the icing on the cake. For a p-car, I wouldn't skip it.
"What if I'm afraid to do this on my car?"
Then either practice on the minivan, or go to the junkyard and get
an old fender with good paint. Older VW paint is *excellent* for this
as the paint was really thick and durable. Get a solid-colored
piece, similar in color (light or dark) to your subject car.
Here's the materials you'll need for color sanding - #2000 and #25003M sandpaper
and Perfect-It rubbing compound.